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Climbing at the Beer Walls - Keene Valley: Adirondak Parkby Neil Cowley To climb in the adirondaks you will definately want a guidebook. I use Climbing in the Adirondaks by Don Mellor. The Adirondak climbing ethic is one of wilderness and adventure so do expect the book to tell you every nuance of the location, and expect to be pleasantly surprized as you climb. Come with an adventurous spirit, explore the rock and you'll have a great time. First Get to Keene Valley - links to mapquet for driving directions. Then as you are heading North (assuming you are coming from the south) on NY state rt. 9; after the spider web intersection of rt8 and rt5, check out the cliff jumping and Look up at Chapel Pond Slabs. Finally, as you are coming downgrade into the town there will be a pull off on the left. A visual (how I navigate) landmark across from the parking area is a cliff side with a waterfall. Best seen as you are heading south on 9. I'd guess that the climbing area is about a mile outside of town - but memory can be tricky. The guidebook says that the trail starts somewhere between the parking I described and the spider web parking. I don't know about that anymore. There is a well defined trail leading up the hill from the parking area. Take it. The Beer Walls are a beautiful south facing, and very private feeling (except seasonable weekends). You will hike up the hill and turn left (SE) to the Upper Beer Walls and right (nearly direct West) to the Lower Beer walls. You will have hiked up a substantial hill and over the crest. The beer walls fase south and a west affording a tremendous view of the Adirondak Great Range (Gothics, Wolfjaw, and south) When you first explore the Beer walls you will want to do it from the base of the cliff to get a clear view. Follow a well worn path in the general vector of 'ahead' and don't veer right or left. There is a nice cleft between the upper and lower walls through wich you can pass to survey the beer walls from the bottom. If you get turned to the east and the upper walls the first climbs you will encounter (on your left) will be "Seven Ounces" 5.7 40ft. with a lot of rubber and chalk from the beginners usually camped at the base for the day. Don't hesitate to but in and toprope "Bouncer" 5.10 40' for a nice face climb warmup. On the right there are the climbs on the Upper Tier - another good face for a warmup with a smattering from 5.8 to 5.11. My highlights from the upper beers are:"Frosted Mug" 5.9 130 feet (45 meters) satisfactory pro. The guidebook says, "Few features anywhere beg so to be climbed. This is the striking inside corner on the arete just right of the sheer wall of the previous routes." This was one fo the first 'feature' climbs of my predominately face and sport climbing found at the New River in West Virginia and my winter hours in the gym. There is a solid hand-crack that is 2/3 of this climb. We top roped this route and I felt a new kind of pain as I inched my way up the unrelenting arete. My 5.10 flashing skills were giving me NO help at all. "Flying & Drinking and Drinking & Driving" - 5.10 100 feet - And so I step over onto the face and make a breese of it. Top rope recommeded the guidebook rates it as difficult pro. "Labatt-Ami" - 5.7 120 feet (40 meters) Excellent Protection - My notes say 'Take long runners'. This was a favorite while I was in my learning to lead trad stage. It follows THE major inside corner at the far end of the wall. There is a roof move to keep it excitingand is a diverse and varied climb. Enjoy the view from the top. My highlights from the lower beers are:The 'lower' end of the lower beer walls is probably the most popular spot. Many moderate clibs, easily toproped. If you go to the beer walls you must lead: "Rockaholic" a 5.8 80foot perfect finger crack. If memory serves the crux is very low on the climb and excellent footwork is the best detox. The crack is BEAUTIFUL, a long arch with easy placements for size4-8 nuts and size one cams. The rest of the wall is a nice open Adirondak Granite face. The top has access from the west (cliff's end) by a goat trail up - you'l find it. You can toprope a five climbs here and campout. "Detoxification" 5.8 80ft. - ok, its there. "Delirium Tremens" 5.10 50ft. - Right of the Afternoon Deilight is a butress - climb it. "Afternoon Delight" 5.5 60ft. - The guidebook says " An excellent face climb up an unlikely wall." There are many ways to skin a cat - and teach so lbHeis a good place to start. "CWI" 5.6 50feet - Crack line up the wall. Beer Walls Links:Rockclimbing.com - Submit and area, then define th ibih ae, very cool and useful. Gorp bike trip - really unrelated but a very cool itenerary. |
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